Destillation. Cognac

One litre of eau de vie is distilled from nine litres of wine, of which 1/3 disappears as the “angels’ share” after 25 years. After 50 years, this is already half, but even more years result in only 10% of the original amount.


Cognac is distilled in a beautiful vat known as charentais or alambic, which is heated. The wine is boiled, as you would boil eggs, i.e. heated by flame until the boiling point when it begins to evaporate. The upper part (still head) is the gentle steam, but in the so-called swan neck is the good steam that becomes cognac (but that is carefully selected). Steam from the swan’s neck moves on to the cooling chamber along a 50‒60 m long spiral. When the steam hits the cold air, it condenses (even I understand this, my difficulties with physics notwithstanding). The first distilling process lasts 12 hours and results in 30% alcohol by volume. This is repeated another 12 hours during which time a crystal clear liquid results (heads). The masters determine if it is done and if it is good. After the second distillation, the eaux-de-vie is already 60% alcohol by volume. Only 1/3 is used from the first distillation, and only 1/3 eaux-de-vie is used from the second distillation, as well.




Regulations stipulate that the distilling process must begin at the end of October or the beginning of November and must not take place after 31 March.



The eaux-de-vie are use for blending and maturing, but where each one of them ends up (in any one of many the cellars) is determined by the maters, who have many years of experience. There are some masters who wait to become a grand master for 35 years. Each eaux-de-vie , regardless of the region or location of the grapes from which it is created, is prepared individually. Particular attention is paid to the minutest of detail.

Aging

After distillation, it is aged in Limousin wooden barrels, and the aging period is determined by each distillery. The minimum period of aging is two years, which is the basis for VS cognacs. During this time, the spirits lose much of their alcohol content through evaporation – it reaches about 40% alcohol. This evaporated alcohol is known as the “angels’ share”. When the aging process is complete, it is poured into large glass jugs – carboys – and stored for as long as needed.

Blending

One of the most intricate jobs is the blending process, or as the French say – mariage. During this time, the blending masters, under the watchful eye of the head master, mix the real and true blend that you, as a fan of the brand enjoy. Several hundreds of eaux-de-vie are blended so that every time you buy a bottle of cognac, the flavour will be the same as before (not like wine that is allowed to vary). You should remember that although the wine harvest varies from year to year, the taste of the cognac should remain the same. So, when you enjoy a glass of cognac, imagine that an exceptionally talented person mixes these many distillates together to create a drink that is always the same. This master is known as the maître de chai – the person who gets to this position only after many decades of training under the tutelage of other masters.

Barrel world

Before I had the wonderful opportunity to be in the barrel world at Maison Courvoisier. I must say that the creation of barrels is hypnotically beautiful, but from the perspective of the master, it is quite heavy work.

In every cellars there are barrels. Barrels, just like people, can become ill, and they need to be treated. Leaks or other mishaps must be avoided, because nothing is thrown away. The cooper’s job is to make new barrels, as well as test them once they have been emptied and the next eaux-de-vie filled. The felled tree is sawed into boards that are stored outdoors for 3‒5 years to air and age. The boards are then measured, chosen for the required shape, and bent (using fire and water) by hitting and manipulation to create new barrels, which may hold eaux-de-vie for many, many years to come. For every felled oak, three new ones are planted. When the barrels have served their purpose, they are not discarded, but categorized year 1, years 2-4, 5-9, 10-10, and 20-35. This seems trivial, but if you want something to consider – one barrel fetches a price of about 800 euros.

1914 is considered the women’s vintage cognac year – the men had gone off to war, so it was the women who cared for the cognac.



Cellars

The cellar is another wondrous place where magic happens. Some cellars have eaux-de-vie from the 18th century, and some cellars are locked behind two or three separate locks. Access to newer eaux-de-vie is much easier (employees only, of course). The barrels are home to eaux-de-vie – there they breathe, evaporate, and try to converse with the angels by promising them their share, if the angels promise to guarantee good weather conditions for the grapes. Not only do people breathe here, but the drink does also. And there is a system here. In fact, two systems for storing barrels:

  • top barrel sits between two lower ones;

  • top barrel attached to the lower one.

    Every house has its own cellars, which hold something invaluable, not just in monetary value, but also of historical and flavour value. And that is the best place to visit, I must admit, but in the meantime, I don’t know about you, but a glass of cognac on a cold winter evening is my favourite way of reminiscing about the walks we had in the streets of Cognac.

Signe Meirane