Camembert de Normandie

Type of cheese: Soft bloomy rind
Milk: Cow’s milk
Country: France
Region: Normandy

For anyone who’s travelled, indulged in good food, or simply read a lot about it, the word Camembert is no stranger. Well, actually, even for those who haven’t travelled (thanks to the many à la Camemberts, too), it rings a bell. To some, this word means nothing, but then there is another part of humanity to whom it evokes an irresistible craving for the very best.

Camembert de Normandie AOC is one of the most famous French cheeses in the world, yet its history is relatively recent and, as with many stories, not entirely clear. One might imagine that, like many renowned cheeses, it has been produced for centuries – and while there are indications that Camembert was made as early as 1680, the cheese’s “birth” is generally dated to 1791. This was thanks to a woman named Marie Christine Harel, whose portrait often appears on packages of Camembert, and who is widely referred to as the mother of Camembert.

Her role in the story began with a stroke of fate: the wife of a farmer, she once offered shelter to a Catholic priest named Charles Jean Bonvoust, who was fleeing Paris. The priest, born in the village of Brie, showed his gratitude by sharing his mother’s recipe for Brie-style cheese. Harel passed the recipe on to her daughter, Marie Harel Penel, and although the cheese’s popularity steadily grew, its real fame in France and across Europe didn’t come until a century later.

This boost came when engineer Ridel invented the “Camembert box” made of poplar wood, which made it possible to transport the cheese further afield. With this innovation, Camembert’s rise to fame truly began – a rise that continues to this day.

As its popularity spread, Camembert began being produced outside of Normandy, much to the dismay of local producers, who feared it would damage their cheese’s good name. In 1909, the Normandy Camembert Producers’ Association was formed, setting strict criteria and declaring that true Camembert de Normandie must be made exclusively in Normandy. Thank God for that.

However, in 1926, the Court of Appeal in Orléans ruled that “Camembert” had become a generic name and could be used by producers anywhere in the world. This marked the beginning of large-scale industrial production. Unsurprisingly, this upset traditional producers, as Camembert began to be manufactured not only throughout France but even in Switzerland, Italy – anywhere, actually. But the French wouldn’t be French if they didn’t fight back – and they did. In response, Normandy producers fought. In 1968, they secured the “Label Rouge” designation for authentic Camembert from Normandy – still present today. It was the first step in reclaiming their heritage, and in 1983, Camembert finally received AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) status. In 1996, it also earned the EU’s PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) label.


How to recognise Camembert de Normandie AOC

Today, any Camembert de Normandie AOC must:

~ Be produced in one of five authorised Normandy departments: Calvados, Manche, Orne, Eure, and Seine-Maritime
~ Be made using milk exclusively from Normandy cows
~ Be made from raw, unpasteurised milk
~ Be traditionally coagulated
~ Be hand-ladled into moulds
~ Undergo a curd-smoothing process
~ Be salted using traditional methods
~ Be matured for at least 21 days, with a minimum of 16 days spent within the region
~ Be packaged according to strict regulations

When to eat it?

Camembert can be enjoyed at various stages of ripeness. The Normans themselves prefer it when the centre – the cheese’s “heart” – is still firm rather than soft and runny, which means the cheese is still fresh, as that firm heart of the cheese turns into a melting goodness only with age. And that is the cheese that others enjoy – gooey and creamy. In every form, though, a true AOC Camembert de Normandie is a remarkable cheese.

Even though only one official Camembert AOC exists, the cheese comes in different variations – even within Normandy. Some examples include:

~ Camembert au Calvados
~ Camembert au Cidre
~ Pasteurised Camembert

These cheeses do not carry the AOC label – they may instead be marked with “Fabriqué en Normandie”, which doesn’t guarantee the use of milk from Normandy cows, and they are often matured for less than 20 days. Because of pasteurisation, shorter ripening times, and other factors, their flavour is much milder, and the rind tends to be thicker than on raw-milk cheeses.

Flavour profile

Camembert is known for its pale, bloomy white rind and soft yellow interior. A good Camembert has a mild fruitiness and gentle mushroom aromas reminiscent of mould – subtle, pleasant, and in no way overwhelming. Its smell is generally more intense than Brie.

How to use it

Camembert is a star on cheese boards – it’s one of the famous “cheese board five.” It’s also used in cooking: fried in croquettes, added to salads with peppery greens and walnuts, stuffed into sandwiches, melted into sauces, or used in toasties. If you’ve got a true AOC Camembert, though, the best way to enjoy it is on a cheese board at the end of a meal.

What to drink with it

Traditionally, Camembert is paired with Normandy cider. If cider’s not your thing, go for a round, medium-bodied Bordeaux red or a bold wine from the Rhône Valley.

Buying the best Camembert

The very best and most authentic Camembert AOC can only be bought in France, as few retailers are willing to export raw milk cheeses. To offer a similar experience abroad, many producers now make pasteurised versions that aim to mimic the rich flavour of the real thing. In Latvia, raw milk Camembert isn’t available – so it’s worth finding the best of what is.