Gâteau Battu or Gâteau Picard

Once upon a time, in a region called Picardy (Picardie) in northern France—north of Paris and the Île-de-France—a cake was born, known as gâteau battu or gâteau Picardie. Although many accounts trace its origin to Abbeville, where the cake first appeared around the late 19th century, there are also those who claim it dates back to the 17th century, when it was known as gâteau Mollet or pain aux œufs. Regardless of the story, I’m sure that both versions—or no version at all—will satisfy anyone who has tasted the cake. One thing is certain: it was officially recognised as a regional, or Picard, speciality in 1900.

Though that holds true today, back in those times, the cake was exceptionally rich in eggs and butter—ingredients that were not the cheapest. As such, it was typically served during weddings, village festivals, or family celebrations. These days, however, it forms part of breakfast, often served with jam, or as a goûter, a snack enjoyed at lunch.

The name "battu" refers to the method used to prepare it. The dough is beaten by hand (not in my version, but you can do that) for an extended period to achieve a soft and airy texture, much like a brioche, but lighter and fluffier.

Another distinctive feature of the cake is its shape—it’s easily recognised by its tall, cylindrical form. It is baked in a fluted mould.

to activate the yeast:
20 g fresh yeast
½ tsp golden caster sugar
½ tsp all-purpose flour
1 tsp lukewarm water

for the dough:
500 g all-purpose (T65 in France) flour
100 g golden caster sugar
s g sea salt
vanilla powder
100 ml sweet cream (30%)
6 medium eggs, yolks and whites separated
400 g butter (room temperature)


Activate the yeast. In a bowl, mix the yeast ingredients and leave in a warm place (I put the bowl either on a radiator, if it is not too hot, or close to warm objects) until it starts to show some bubble and grow a bit bigger. Not too much.

Put the flour into a mixing bowl. Add the sugar, salt, and vanilla powder and mix.

Add the activated yeast and the egg yolks, and mix on a low speed or by hand until it begins to come together.

With the mixer running or kneading by hand, gradually add the egg whites and knead them in. Once incorporated, continue kneading and add the butter.

Keep kneading for 10–15 minutes until the dough is smooth.

Grease a gâteau battu mould thoroughly with butter and fill it with the dough (it should be no more than three-quarters full). Cover and let it rise in a warm place for 2 to 4 hours until the dough almost reaches the top. The rising time may vary depending on the humidity and warmth of your kitchen.

Preheat the oven to 160° C. Place the cake in the oven and bake for 30–40 minutes. Test after 30 minutes by inserting a toothpick—it should come out clean.

Remove the cake from the oven and take it out of the mould. Let it cool on a wire rack.

This recipe is adapted from Les Carnets de Cuisine de Toulouse-Lautrec