Tourteau Fromagé

After six attempts to get it right, I have given up for a while on baking this Poitou region classic at home, putting those two specially bought moulds somewhere in the cupboard. I’ll come back to it, but in the meantime, I’m buying it from those who know how to make that perfect burnt top that hides the lightest and airiest cake underneath—a cake called Tourteau Fromagé.

Tourteau Fromagé comes from the word tourterie, which means “cake”, and started its way up the ladder—and into people’s hearts—in the 19th century, when a cook apparently forgot a cake in an oven that was too hot. The result was a blackened crust, along with the realisation that this very crust was responsible for keeping the cake inside moist and fresh for a long time. Plus, it keeps the cake nice and tall, not collapsed like mine. Every time. 

Today, even though the cake is available all year long and in many supermarkets, traditionally (and still today in the region), Tourteau Fromagé was and is served during special occasions like christenings, weddings and other gatherings, accompanied by champagne or wine. Light, airy, made with fresh cheese, eggs, flour and other simple ingredients—this is one of those rare cakes that looks burnt, but tastes absolutely incredible. For me, especially at breakfast.

One of the best one in Cognac can be found at the Cognac market on Tuesdays and Saturdays, at the cheese stand to the right of the main entrance