““Good Seeds Dipped in Unauthorised Vinegar””

In my life, after tasting a cheap Chablis, I am pretty convinced that Dijon mustard, apart from the Russian variety we had throughout our childhood, was the second product I tasted from Burgundy. After taking no interest in regional cuisine, I did presume that Burgundy was just that – cheap Chablis for some, expensive for others, and mustard. Little did I know that Burgundy is praised for many products (more here), and yes, mustard is one of the most famous ones (well, maybe wine, too).

Dijon mustard, with its long history, is indeed one of the most celebrated products to come from the land of the most expensive wine in the world. Ironically, when used too much in food, it can really destroy the pairing between wine and food.

Mustard, known since ancient Alexandria, was loved and praised for its spicy burn already then. And it was in AD 42 when the first recipe for edible mustard, called mustum ardens or burning juice, was handed down.

Fast forward, Charlemagne advised planting mustard, and it was then that the mustard sprang up. Around the year 1300, there were 10 moutadiers working in and around Paris; by the 1600s, there were approximately 600. Some time in the 14th century, the Dukes of Burgundy, who had their homes in Dijon, wanted to guarantee the quality of their mustard. However, it wasn’t until the end of the 18th century, despite the fact that the quality of Dijon mustard had been considered impeccable over the centuries, that it became widely recognised and only in consequence to Jean Naigeon, who replaced the pungent vinegar with verjus (must from unripe grapes), and that was the secret to making it one of the best mustards of that time.

Only since 1937 has it been officially written down how Dijon mustard should be made. And that is the mustard we adore so much.