A Taste of San Francisco

There’s no way back once you’ve taken a bite of San Francisco. It is enticing, sweet, spicy, fresh, local, organic – everything you ever wished for. Nowhere else tastes quite like San Francisco: twenty kinds of freshly grown mushrooms, freshly brewed coffee, moist sourdough pizza, creamy cheese, slow-roasted pork, and vibrant Mexican food. The ice cream is churned from local milk so fresh it feels almost criminal not to drink it as it is, and oysters from the bay can turn even the fiercest sceptics into lovers. Oysters, I mean.

San Francisco has everything: from locally made French-style cheeses to pungent Italian-style varieties that sometimes rival, even surpass, their European ancestors. This is thanks to the immigrants who arrived in the early 20th century, bringing with them their knowledge, traditions, and recipes. They have done an extraordinary job; today San Francisco is one of the greatest foodie destinations in the world. To be clear, a week or two’s holiday will never be enough to taste the true San Francisco – but it will hook you into returning for more. Every neighbourhood has its own charm, its own food scene, its own generosity: the Mission is unlike both Richmonds, unlike Cow Hollow, unlike the Financial District, unlike any of the others. And when travelling with children, it all feels different again.

Outerlands

Outerlands is no secret to local foodies. We experienced it in many ways – from a romantic breakfast to afternoon cocktails, to Sunday lunch with the children – and never once did I regret being there (only that I hadn’t more time to stay). In eight years it has grown from a small twenty-seat café into a restaurant twice the size, yet it has retained all its original charm. The produce is still local, the ricotta homemade, the bacon from a nearby farm. Except for the interior, little has changed: you arrive, write your name on the board outside, order your drink, and wait. And waiting has never been as pleasant as it is at Outerlands, where people chat over their morning coffee or a Saturday glass of wine.

But what strikes me most is the philosophy: “We are committed to an exploration of small business as a powerful means to connect personally and creatively with our larger community,” their website says – and it is true. The community loves them, as does everyone who visits. The experience is beyond magical: every bite is as a bite should be – respectful, local, and delicious.

Le Marais

Le Marais opened in 2013. Longing for a taste of home, owner Patrick Ascaso recreated a boulangerie he remembered from Arpajon, France. He wanted to bring the flavours and textures of his childhood to his new home: croissants filled with layers of butter, pain au chocolat with dark chocolate balancing the richness of pastry, and chausson aux pommes fresher than you would ever expect. Every viennoiserie is made with local and French butter, organic flour, and the best ingredients, with a belief that taste comes not only from skill but from source. Breakfasts here are magical – and very generous (I even took my granola away for the next morning). From simple sandwiches and salads to monsieur and oeufs, everything is prepared with the same generosity.

Arsicault Bakery

There was a time when Tartine reigned supreme for croissants in San Francisco, but not any longer: pastry lovers now flock to Arsicault. Saturdays bring long queues, but they move quickly, and the farmers’ market is just around the corner. The croissant melts in your mouth so fast you hardly have time to savour its thousand layers. The same goes for every variation – cheese, meat, or the almond croissant (the best I have ever eaten). Armando Lacayo handcrafts each one to perfection, which is why they are now considered the best in the country. So much so that while you are still finishing one, you find yourself queuing again for another.

Hog Island Oyster (Ferry Building)

Nothing has changed in eight years: people still queue for Hog Island Oyster, where the freshest oysters are served with just a whisper of the sea. Though meat dishes appear on the menu, this place is truly about seafood. Start with steamers (Manila clams and Calabrese sausage) and chowder, never forgetting chips and a glass of local wine. Everything here is local, sustainable, and fresh – and you taste it in every bite.

Tacolicious

You can book in advance, or you can take your chances – either way, it’s worth it. We didn’t reserve, knowing that even if we had to wait an hour, we would. Tacolicious is that special. Their cocktails range from brilliant non-alcoholic blends to glasses of jalapeño fire. We were lucky: after a three-hour walk from the Walt Disney Museum via the Golden Gate Bridge and Crissy Field Beach, we arrived and were seated straight away (though outdoor tables had an hour’s wait). The noisy, laughter-filled atmosphere drew the girls in immediately.

There is no memory of San Francisco like Tacolicious – where they fell in love with guacamole and food spicier than usual. Drinks arrived with a basket brimming with taco chips, which vanished quickly while we waited for tacos and a Caesar Picante salad (Caesar, Mexican style). Forks and knives are provided, but tacos taste best eaten as street food – by hand. Sitting there, it was no wonder everyone adores it: fresh, local, Mexican, generous, joyful – a place to blend in with the locals.

The Mill

Returning after a few years, The Mill had not lost a shred of its charm. In 2016, we had sat inside chatting with Josey (the owner, who was kind enough to gift me his book) and knew it would always be on our list when back in San Francisco.

This time, we came with the children, after a walk from the hotel to the Painted Ladies. We sat down to breakfast with excellent coffee, house-made cold tea, and slices of bread topped with avocado and sea salt or hazelnut cream. We reminisced about our first visit, while the girls “returned” to Europe, delighted by croissants and pain au chocolat, feeding crumbs to the birds under the table. We sat outside on the terrace corner, cars streaming past on Divisadero Street, dogs padding over for hugs, people chatting at the next table about their daily routines. Off the beaten track, The Mill feels more local – and all the more special.

Tartine

There is no other place like Tartine. Thanks to Chad Robertson, the world began to see sourdough bread with new appreciation and dignity. San Francisco has always had sourdough, thanks to its perfect climate, but Tartine made it unique.

On the corner of Guerrero and 18th, people queue for the bread that has become a San Francisco staple. Locals and visitors alike come for morning croissants, lunch sandwiches, afternoon tea, and all-day pastries. In 2016 they expected us: our table was filled with everything. I took a bite of lemon tart and melted with it, then chocolate cake, melting again. I counted the layers of croissant, wishing to learn the art myself. We had so many cakes we were still eating them days later.
This time, we queued for croissants, kouign-amann, and bread – the day after visiting Tartine Manufactory, the heart and soul of Tartine today. You can pop in just for bread, but really, you should sit for a drink and a meal.

Arriving just before the menus changed from lunch to dinner, we sipped our drinks (the girls adjusting to “shrub” culture), waiting. Bread arrived with local butter and vanished in a minute – no surprise. The menu is small, changing daily, but it captures the season: country bread with different creams, smorgasbords, salads, and warm dishes blending San Francisco with Asian, Mexican, and European influences. Every bite is (perhaps slightly overpriced) pure joy, supporting growers, farmers, and community.

Bob’s Donuts

At a certain age, even a cookbook author doesn’t seek out doughnuts – but children change everything. And in San Francisco, there is only one Bob’s Donuts worth visiting.

A family-run shop since the 1960s, it hasn’t changed much. Hundreds of yeast pastries plunge into hot oil to re-emerge as unforgettable doughnuts: lush, moist, airy, light – so good it feels almost strange to say it aloud. One of the last handmade doughnut shops left in the city.

For the girls, it was a surprise after a long, chilly walk from Coit Tower along Lombard Street to Nob Hill. They pressed their noses to the glass, choosing doughnuts. Alongside the classics were Halloween specials, making it even harder. We ordered the classics, plus a Halloween doughnut and an apple fritter the size of my husband’s fist.

As the shop’s website says: “This isn’t for the timid eaters. This is the heavy-duty, apple-filled, frosted-coated hunk of a doughnut that will scare away anyone who isn’t ready for serious eating.” Thankfully, we were ready. One of the best doughnuts I have ever eaten. Now, even without children, even at my “elegant” age, I’ll still go to Bob’s every single time.

Smitten Ice Cream

I could skip ice cream when travelling alone, or just the two of us, but never with children. Nothing is more sacred to them than a cone piled high with scoops. San Francisco is full of ice cream shops, but I had my eye on one: Smitten Ice Cream. Here, fresh ice cream is made in ninety seconds – the smoothest scoop in the city, thanks to owner Robyn Sue Fisher’s 2007 invention.

Sightglass Coffee

“Hailing from 20-year-old Caturra trees on an 8-hectare farm near the Andes, Finca El Hospital is as stunning as it sounds. Sweet Luxardo cherry, bright kumquat, and rich toffee.” This is just one of the coffees at Sightglass, on Divisadero Street.

When we arrived, the café was crowded, no space for the four of us. On a sweltering 29-degree day, we ordered homemade vanilla syrup iced coffee – something we rarely drink. After one sip, everyone wanted more – even those “not supposed” to drink coffee. Cold brew, local milk, syrup: perfectly balanced. It was our salvation for the next four blocks, and a memory to keep.