The empty bottle parade. July 2025
Champagne Brice
Established in Bouzy since 1684, the Brice family’s roots run even deeper, tracing back to some of the earliest winegrowers in the region. Originally a red wine–producing house, it transitioned over time to become a dedicated Champagne producer. A very smart decision.
Of their 12 hectares of land, eight are located in the Grand Cru village of Bouzy and planted predominantly with Pinot Noir, with just one hectare given over to my dear Chardonnay. The remaining four hectares are split between Chigny-lès-Roses (1.5 ha), planted with both Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, and Loches-sur-Ource (2.5 ha) in the Aube, planted with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Although officially certified organic only in 2023, the estate’s environmentally respectful practices stretch far back. It's not just about organic viticulture—it’s about integrity. No chemical pesticides or insecticides have been used, and the soil work actively promotes biodiversity, particularly in Bouzy, where the Brice family has cultivated vineyards since the 17th century.
Brice is also one of those (let's say rare) champagne houses that does not carry out malolactic fermentation, allowing the terroir to express itself through the wines. This approach embraces the natural acidity and freshness of Bouzy's soils, with as little intervention as possible in the cellar. While each cuvée is different, non-vintage champagnes are generally aged for around two years, and vintages for at least three. All their cuvées maintain a dosage of around 3g of sugar per litre.
Brice Blanc de Noirs
Made entirely from Pinot Noir grown in Bouzy, this is a charming and expressive champagne. Fermented in stainless steel tanks and oak barrels, and aged on lees for a minimum of three years, it has beautifully fine bubbles and generous notes of ripe fruit. Those classic brioche aromas I so adore are present, with just a touch of spice in the background.
Its well-defined structure makes it a true gastronomic champagne pairing perfectly with seafood, poulet rôti and other delicate chicken dishes, as well as buttered sole and slices of Comté or Gruyère.
Brice Bouzy Le Poteau
Crafted from grapes grown on the Le Poteau parcel in Bouzy, this is a zero-dosage Champagne produced in very limited quantities—just 3,000 bottles. Aged on lees for four years, it delivers a gold-inspired colour and greets you with notes of brioche, lemon zest, and luscious ripe yellow fruits, especially plums.
Its initial vibrancy gradually unfolds into a sensation of silkiness and balanced acidity. Though some enjoy it as an aperitif, I personally love it with food. Poulet rôti, again, is always a good idea—along with Gruyère, Beaufort, Comté, cheese soufflé, lobster, and buttered fish dishes.
Brice Héritage XXII
Though perhaps the simplest of these three Brice champagnes—at least in terms of structure and ageing—Héritage XXII is still a beautifully crafted wine. Made from hand-harvested Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grown in Bouzy, it stands out for its fresh, high-acid profile and mouth-watering brightness.
It’s perfect for an apéritif or paired with lighter seafood and delicate poultry dishes—think turkey, poached chicken, or lean white fish (but nothing too oily like salmon).
Champagne Bandite 2019 – Le Grand Chemin
It’s only now, as I write this, that I realise this champagne is yet another masterpiece from Champagne Roger Coulon—a producer I’ve mentioned before. The Bandite “Le Grand Chemin” 2019 is an exceptional cuvée made from Pinot Noir grown in the Le Grand Chemin vineyard, located in a Premier Cru village in the Montagne de Reims.
The 2019 vintage was a warm one in champagne, which allowed the grapes to ripen fully and develop great richness. The wine was aged in Burgundy barrels for around a year, then spent over three more years on lees—resulting in a champagne that is rich and round, and finely structured.
The palate is filled with spice, hints of caramel, and very ripe red plums. This is, without question, a complex champagne, full of character and mineral finesse, with a long and elegant finish. It’s a wonderful pairing for charcuterie boards, chicken dishes, lightly grilled meats, and aged cheeses. It also goes beautifully with pommes Anna, pissaladière, and—yes—cheese soufflé.