The empty bottle parade. June
Champagne Clément Perseval “Les Tremblaies” Extra Brut
From producer Clément Perseval in the Premier Cru village of Chamery, Montagne de Reims, this champagne is made entirely from red grapes (Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir). With as few as over 1,000 bottles produced, it’s a rare find, crafted from grapes grown organically and biodynamically in vineyards planted in 1974. While this plays a big part in shaping the wine’s character, other factors contribute too: spontaneous fermentation in old barrels (tonneaux), and a long maturation on the lees (at least eight years).
With notes of brioche (my favourite notes) and crisp, crunchy bread spread with a generous layer of butter, this champagne has the same full-bodied presence on the palate (many tend to feel much lighter). Its richness and distinctive finish almost demand to be paired with food rather than enjoyed as an apéritif. So next time you have a charcuterie plate, or perhaps grilled white fish with plenty of character, tuna or salmon tartare, think of this wine. Or, better yet, reach for those foods when you open this bottle.
Domaine Lagille "Au fil du temps" 2017
I do sometimes choose a wine by its label, like someone judges a man by his hat (not always the smartest move), and this was one of those wines. One, I called my favourite simply by looking at it. I don’t know if it was the mood of the day that made me do that. Something else. Perhaps the label, but I still remember that taste from almost two months ago. It's making my saliva go wild as I write this paragraph.
Located near the Montagne de Reims, in Treslon, Domaine Lagille owns 7 hectares of vineyards. With plots scattered across several communes as opposed to being in one block, they are treated by practising sustainable viticulture and currently transitioning to organic certification.
Though not mentioned on the front label, it’s clear from both taste and the back label that this is a Blanc de Blancs (with just 1g of dosage per litre). As I sip, I still wonder whether this bottle is better suited as an apéritif or a gastronomic wine. It’s quite mineral-driven and acidic, with hints of pear and citrus zest, and a delicate touch on the finish. It does make me want to serve it alongside seafood — perhaps shellfish, light fish dishes, or a mild cheese on buttered bread.
www.domainelagille.com
Champagne Ponsart “La DS” Extra Brut
This distinguished cuvée comes from Baptiste & Charles Ponsart, two brothers running their champagne house in Janvry, in the Vallée de la Marne. The domaine focuses on single-vineyard expressions and minimal-intervention winemaking — a truly artisanal approach.
Though relatively young compared to many champagne houses, they make up for it with experience gained both in Champagne and Bordeaux. With only two hectares of vineyards planted mainly with Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier grapes, their main goal while making the wine is to express terroir at its finest.
Using indigenous yeasts and ageing in oak barrels, their champagnes achieve a slightly more complex profile, where buttery, brioche notes mingle with hints of red apple, citrus zest, almonds, quince, and a vibrant energy that carries into the palate. The wine shows balanced minerality and a noticeable (but not overwhelming) acidity.
Instagram: @champagneponsart
Roger Coulon “Esprit de Vrigny” Brut Nature
Situated in Vrigny, a Premier Cru village in the northern Montagne de Reims, Roger Coulon is a family-owned estate dating back to 1806. Now run by the ninth generation — Isabelle and Eric Coulon, together with their children, Louise and Edgar. The estate that covers 11 hectares has been certified organic since 2019, though organic practices began long before.
They cultivate Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, and Pinot Noir on plots located 150 to 230 metres above sea level. Fermentation occurs with indigenous yeasts in oak barrels. After 10 months on the lees, the champagne is bottled, and no dosage and no filtration is executed. An approach that truly allows the terroir to speak.
The acacia blossom in this wine reminds me of trees in the park near my home. Combined with citrus zest and an abundance of white fruits like juicy yellow plums and white peaches, it delivers a slightly acidic (again, in the best way) and mineral-forward champagne. Aromas and flavours are perfectly aligned, finishing with a mix of creaminess and a touch of bitterness that lingers just long enough.
www.champagne-coulon.com