Much, much more

The heated oven awaits the large pan of just-peeled potatoes, smothered in olive oil, rosemary or sage, and garlic. The perfect finish is a sprinkle of sea salt and freshly ground pepper. Then you wait for the aroma of that magical combination—one I simply can’t resist. It is, for me, the truest comfort food imaginable. Perhaps because I eat it so rarely. Perhaps because of the rosemary or sage. Or maybe it’s the simplicity that calls to us all. The potato—that, for me, is simplicity.

That was (that simplicity) until I discovered coloured potatoes. The kind that many people shy away from, but just as many praise to the high heavens. These coloured potatoes taste slightly different, but are utterly hypnotic in their range of shades. Every time I buy violet potatoes, I get that childlike feeling of joy—like getting sweets. They’re something special.

To many, a potato is just a potato—something to be boiled, mashed, or fried. Yet, it’s much more, though not necessarily an everyday staple. The two kilos sitting in my fridge might last a month, and that, too, makes potatoes special in their own right. Christmas roast with potatoes. New potatoes with butter and dill. Potatoes cooked over a campfire. Those are my three go-to dishes. Then comes the rest: potato salads with meat, fish, vegetables, fresh cheese, creamy and non-creamy sauces, mayonnaise, or pesto. The base can be fried, boiled, steamed, or wrapped in foil. Potatoes are so neutral they go with everything—yet so special they deserve to be paired with something exceptional.

The conversation at the market—which ones should I take?—is an experience in itself. Listening in, you’ll hear passionate debates over which variety suits which dish, and why. Yellow, firm potatoes with pinkish skin that hold up well in cooking, perfect for crispy roasted or fried potatoes.

And let’s be honest: nothing beats French fries (chips)—if they’re cooked well. Not easy to master at home, they are the perfect dish to enjoy while eating out. The best chips I’ve ever had were in a place not far from Sarlat, served with duck confit, though not before a proper portion of homemade pork pâté. Also, there are unforgettable chips in Paris, at Le Coq Rico in Montmartre—a restaurant that serves organic poulet rôti with chips and salad. If you ever go, try it. And restaurant Poulet au Pot, and many more.

When we talk about potatoes, we often don’t realise that there are as many varieties of potatoes in the world as there are apples, carrots, or other vegetables. Seemingly humble at first glance, they are one of the four main staples of the human diet, along with maize, rice, and wheat. This poor nightshade plant is often unfairly demonised as something to avoid—but let me remind you: you don’t need a lot of a good thing to enjoy it.

Cultivated in South and North America for over 10,000 years, with Peru recognised as their birthplace, they were brought to Europe in the 16th century—thanks to Columbus and other explorers—travelling alongside tomatoes. Initially, they were mistrusted, seen as dangerous because of their resemblance to some toxic plants. That fear wasn’t helped by confusion over which parts were edible—consuming the green bits or surface-exposed tubers often led to illness. But over time, they gained respect, and by the 18th century, French agronomist Antoine Parmentier had famously succeeded in popularising mashed potatoes in France.

Today, there are more than 4,000 varieties of potatoes across the world, many unique to specific regions. As lovely as the classic light-skinned varieties are, I find myself drawn to the violet, bluish, orange, pink, and stark white potatoes that pair so beautifully with a wide range of dishes.

And yes—often the sweet potato is lumped in with coloured potatoes, even though it doesn’t technically belong to the same family. The sweet potato resembles a stretched-out version of a potato, and its colour ranges from pale white or yellow to vivid orange and even deep violet. Though it isn’t a “real” potato, I think it earns its place right there among them.