Burgundy and its food traditions

When visiting or even thinking about Burgundy, one tends to think of it solely as a tiny region famous for its wines. Yes, it is indeed renowned for wines, being one of the most expensive wine regions in the world, with the most ingenious system (so detailed that it takes into consideration even the slightest changes in soil, not just the grapes themselves). But Burgundy is not just about that.

First of all, Burgundy is not just Burgundy. Officially called Bourgogne-Franche-Comté (formed in 2016), it combines four eastern regions: Jura, Haute-Saône, Doubs, and Territoire de Belfort. Secondly, although praised for its wine, it is also home to many famous products such as Dijon mustard, anis candies, cheeses, snails, and beef, not to mention the long list of recipes that the whole world loves to recreate, either as they are or with a personal twist.

Spanning an area of 47,784 square kilometres, it is the fifth-largest region in France, uniting the départements of Côte-d'Or, Doubs, Haute-Saône, Jura, Nièvre, Saône-et-Loire, Territoire de Belfort, and Yonne, with its capital being none other than the centre of gastronomy – Dijon. With landscapes ranging from flat lands to hills and mountains, temperatures that vary by several degrees, and foods that can be very different from one part of the region to another, Burgundy is incredibly abundant and generous, making it a delightful place to visit and discover.

Products to try and buy

Mustard
That is another story found here.

Poivres de cassis
Blackcurrant pepper, which has no relation to actual pepper but is called as such because it resembles one. It is derived from the buds of the blackcurrant plant and is somewhat between the tartness of blackcurrants and the strength of its leaves.

Crème de Cassis
A liqueur made from blackberries, which is drunk as it is or, very famously, mixed with champagne or Crémant de Bourgogne under the name Kir Royal, or simply Kir if made with Aligoté wine.

Anis de Flavigny
Little anise candies, where anise seeds are coated with sugar over a period of almost two weeks. It is one of the most iconic sweets, not only in the region but also in France.

Boeuf Charolais
Although found all over France and the world these days, the "real" Charolais, labelled Label Rouge beef, comes from strict boundaries in the Charolais region in Burgundy, grazing only on natural pasture in the same area. If they do feed on something else, it can only be traditional crops like corn, hay, and others "natural" foods. The meat must be identifiable the moment it is sold and, before that, slaughtered with particular care.

Pain d'Épices Petit Jean
There is only one place left where the classic is made, and that is in Dijon. Different from other kinds of pain d’épices in France being drier, it is mostly and traditionally eaten for breakfast, toasted and with butter. But I love it just as it is, with tea or coffee or fried in a pan and topped with a slice of foie gras (classic for a reason).

Poulet de Bresse
One of the most famous chickens, not only in this generous region but throughout France. At the markets, it is mainly sold with the head (you can, of course, ask for it to be cut off).

Red wine vinegar

Fresh seasonal truffles

Nonnettes
Born in Dijon, they are spiced small-size gingerbread cakes filled with jam, most often orange or blackcurrant.

Gaufrette Mâconnaise
Thin rolled crispy waffles.

Soft caramels

Nougatine de Nevers
Created in the middle of the 19th century, this confectionery is loved for its orange-hued, pearly appearance full of almond flavour.

Fir Honey

Griotte
Morello cherries macerated and then covered with chocolate.

Gimblette
A small, ring-shaped biscuit made from flour, sugar, water, eggs, some candied lemon, and grated lemon zest, poached before baking.

Dandelion Flower Jelly

Biscuit Demontbozon
An oval-shaped, delicate orange blossom-flavored cookie with a history dating back to the 18th century. Historically produced in Montbozon, production has now moved to Besançon (since April 2021).

Biscuit de Chablis
Also known as Biscuit Duché, this cookie was created in the 19th century by accident, thanks to Chablis pastry chef Alfred Duché, who forgot the cookies in the oven and noticed that it created a unique glaze. Made from flour, sugar, eggs, gum tragacanth, baking powder, and powdered vanilla, it’s perfect for pairing with Chablis and coffee.

Les Asperges de Ruffey
In a commune next to Dijon, called Ruffey-lès-Echirey, white asparagus – not so well-known even in the rest of France, let alone the rest of the world – grows, pleasing so many local connoisseurs and restaurateurs who await them every spring. If the weather is generous, they arrive at the beginning of April, yet usually by mid-month, and last until the end of May, after the green asparagus arrives a bit earlier. Particular for their white colour and violet tips, they are delicate in flavour and a bit bitter in taste. The clay soil of this part of the region gives them less fibre, more juiciness, and a little less power to grow tall, so they are shorter than the average asparagus.

Pommes Belle Fille de Salins
Coming from an ancient variety, these are late apples originating from Jura, especially valued for their high resistance to cold weather (they can withstand temperatures that drop to -20°C, and since the tree flowers very late, usually in mid-May, it protects the flowers from late spring frosts). Red, with yellow stripes, with flesh so juicy and sweet, and colour more white than yellow. The slow ripening time lets them not only evolve, letting us experience the classical apple aromas, but also adds a bit of almond notes to the experience.

L’Oignon d’Auxonne
The Auxonne onion, so praised by onion lovers, grows in the Saône valley. It looks like a round and slightly flattened bulb with yellowish copper skin. Once an almost lost variety, it is now in the hands of The Brotherhood of the Auxonne Onion, who fight for its existence. They are used the same as any other onion – in tarts, soups, salads, sauces, and other meals. And when in Auxonne, try them in the famous onion jam.

Fish
Perch, pike, tench.

Boulon Pain (Boulon Bread)
A fairly small bread made from barley flour and sourdough, representing the staple foods of farmers living in self-sufficiency, both back then and now.

Brési
Spelled braisi or breusi, this dried and smoked beef from the Montbéliarde breed is found in Jura, more specifically in the part that is nearer to Switzerland. After salting, the beef may also be rubbed with herbs and spices like juniper, thyme, bay leaves, and cloves, and then dried for around three weeks over resinous wood in a smokehouse (tuyé). Served in thin slices, it is perfect as an appetiser or a companion when enjoying raclette. One of the many foods that show the classical preservation and preparation methods in the region over centuries.

Jambon Persillé
A tradition that started around the Middle Ages is still strong today. No matter where you go in the region, whether it’s the supermarket, butcher's shop, market, or épicerie, it’s there. Originally made from leftovers after pigs were slaughtered in November (known as "Saint-Cochons" to mark the end of Lenten fasting), it has become a staple all year long and a very traditional food to eat around Easter.

Gandeuillot
Also known as gandoyau, this charcuterie originating from the Fougerolles region in Haute-Saône and the Val-d'Ajol in the Vosges is a large sausage shaped like a "Jesus". Made from a mix of pork belly, cut into strips and mixed with chopped tripe, anise, salt, pepper, and sometimes kirsch, it is later cooked and then smoked over a wood fire. It is very particular and not everyone's cup of tea. It can be consumed cold or hot. In the first case, it is sliced thinly and served as an appetiser or on salads, but when served hot, it is sliced into thick slices and pan-fried to be eaten with potatoes.

Jambon de Luxeuil
Smoked ham crafted from pig legs raised in the Vosges Saônoises region. After choosing the best ones, they are rubbed with salt, Arbois red wine, and a spice mixture, later to be smoked and matured for at least nine months before being sold. Perfect to be served in thin slices as an appetiser.

Saucisse de Morteau and Saucisse de Montbéliard
Both are smoked sausages.

Rosette du Morvan
Handcrafted pork sausages, seasoned with spices and herbs, and encased in natural pork casings. Air-drying helps develop their distinctive taste and mild texture.

Jambon Fumé du Haut-Doubs
Ham that characterises the mountain traditions of salting and long (weeks or months) smoking the meat in places called tuyés. After selecting the best ham, it is salted and seasoned and then smoked in spruce, fir, or juniper for 2-5 days, which leads to cooking the ham in its own juices, leaving a tender and moist texture. Only after ageing for 3-6 months is it sold for us to enjoy as an appetizer in very thin slices or served with other dishes.

Cheeses
Époisses, Charolais, Morbier, Brillat Savarin, Bleu de Gex, Langres.


Dishes to Try

Escargots with garlic butter
Quails with fresh grapes

Boeuf Bourguignon
Hearty beef stew braised in red wine with added shallots, mushrooms, and bacon. Purely divine.

Bresse chicken in verjus
Coq au vin
Crayfish in cream
Comté cheese beignets
Rabbit in mustard sauce

Gougères
Pâte à choux puffs with grated Comté cheese.

Poulet de Bresse au Vin Jaune
Chicken cooked in this sublime and extraordinary yellow wine from Jura.

Bourguignon stew
Pork with cabbage and vegetables.

Salad Vigneronne
Dandelion or mâche with bacon and fat sauce.

Crapiaux Morvandiaux
A thick, savory pancake from Morvan made with flour, eggs, milk, and bacon.

Croûte Comtoise
Toasted slices of bread with a sauce made from ingredients like mushrooms (morels are very popular for this dish), sometimes adding bacon or other meats. After baking it all together, it is often eaten as a hearty meal.

Gratin Comtois
Morteau sausage, grated Comté, and potatoes.

Leek gratin

Oeufs Meurette
Poached eggs served with thick red wine sauce, with the addition of mushrooms, pearl onions, and bacon.

Pois à la Nivernaise
Peas from Nevers cooked "à la Nivernaise", which means glazing in butter and sugar, or sometimes wine and stock with butter.

Côte de Boeuf
With an average weight of 800 grams, it is one of the most famous meat dishes in Burgundy, usually shared between two people (very hefty, I might add). It is cooked for 1 minute on each side in a mixture of butter and oil (1 tbsp each). The salt should be added only when you turn the meat over and on the cooked side. After that, the meat is roasted for 7 more minutes on each side to achieve a rare result (saignant) or longer for medium or well done. Classically served  with gratin and red wine, bien sûr.

Pôchouse
A fish stew made with the region's river fish and cooked in a white wine sauce.

Croûte aux Morilles
Bread toast with morels in a creamy sauce. An ode to the region’s mushroom abundance.

Fondue
Made with Comté cheese, wine, and sometimes garlic, served with bread that, when dipped in, coats with the melted cheese.


Sweet Things

Téméraire
Coming from Salins-les-Bains, this is an autumnal cake that combines apples, pears, nuts, and grapes soaked in Jura marc, all enrobed in a shortcrust pastry.

Tarte Bourdaloue (pear tart)
Although its origins date back to 19th century Paris, it has, in a way, become part of Burgundy’s dessert list.

Rigodon
A stale bread pudding with nuts.

Tartouillat
A golden baked custard with seasonal fruits, either pears or apples during fall and winter, or black cherries in summer.

Tapinette
Another stale bread pudding with nuts and cinnamon.

Galette Comtoise/Galette Bisontine
Pastry made from a choux pastry base flavoured with orange blossom, topped with goumeau (cream, eggs, sugar). The latter is almost like pastry cream.

Sèches du Haut-Doubs
Crumbly and extra rich buttery cookies from the Haut-Doubs region.

Pâte de Coing
A quince jelly. An incredible delicacy from Baume-les-Messieurs. Eaten as it is or, more often, with cheeses.

Griottines
Brandy and syrup-soaked sour cherries that are enjoyed as a dessert or an addition to other foods.