Between empty streets and good food

The last time I was in Paris in August was more than ten years ago. It’s a month that reveals a very different side of the city—quieter, calmer, more relaxed. Raw. Beautiful. The metro is empty, as are the streets, especially in arrondissements further from the very centre. It feels almost surreal—like having a whole street to oneself. There’s a kind of magic in that.

But with it comes a small struggle to find good food. Less than ten years ago, almost all the local places we visited were simply shut. These days, while many are still on holiday, there are still plenty taking care of those travelling to—or living in—Paris.

After arriving in Paris on a morning train, I—as always—took a 20-minute walk to enjoy my breakfast and book, before dropping off my far-too-large bag for a three-day stay at a friend’s place. Then I set off for a day of walking, soaking up the warmth and humidity of an August Paris. An espresso tonic lifted my spirits, and a soft-serve ice cream filled my stomach—while a good book did the same for my soul.

The rain came—sudden and persistent—spoiling my plans for about twenty minutes, which was nothing compared to the joy that followed. Places visited and loved.


Ten Belles
Breakfast, brunch, breads, pastries, and coffee

Maison Béguin
Vintage shop nearby

Walk around Belleville

Mardi
Excellent coffee, hojicha latte, baked goods, and truly the best vegan (oat milk) soft-serve ice cream I’ve had in years

Soces
A restaurant I love, just opposite Mardi

Parc des Buttes-Chaumont
One of my favourite parks in Paris. For walking, reading, or simply being

Le Jardin de la Butte Bergeyre
Stroll up through little streets with houses cloaked in greenery and flowers. Stop at the Belleville point de vue to admire Montmartre.

Amatxi
Basque-inspired, natural wines, and a vibe like nowhere else.