La Croix-Rousse. Lyon

This won’t be a story about the history of this part of Lyon. Well, perhaps a little bit, because it’s mostly a small guide to Croix-Rousse (translated as the russet/red cross), where the world seems quite different from the rest of the city.

Although today this hill (254 m high) is covered with houses and concrete streets, back in the 16th–17th centuries it was nothing like that. Then, the area was mostly agricultural, until major changes arrived in the 19th century when much of Lyon’s silk industry moved up here. The typical large-windowed houses were built to accommodate the tall looms of the silk-weavers, and the district became known as “la colline qui travaille” – the hill that works.

It was only later, in the same century, that this part of the city was formally incorporated into Lyon, bringing with it all the hallmarks of urban life – new housing, roads and services.

And, if a few centuries ago, this hill was a part of the agricultural system; today, while fully integrated into the city, it still keeps a connection with its rural past. The famous Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse, marking the boundary between the 1st and 4th arrondissements, is home to one of Lyon’s best markets – except on Mondays. Especially delightful is the Saturday morning organic market, full of local produce and energy.

P.S. The townscape of Lyon, including La Croix-Rousse, has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1998, recognised as part of Lyon’s historic centre.

Today, this part of the city blends a bohemian spirit with its rich heritage, hidden among creative shops, cafés, boulangeries and galleries. It’s one of the best places to experience Lyon from almost a bird’s-eye view, and on clear days, you can even catch a glimpse of the majestic Mont Blanc.

So it’s no wonder that my Saturday mornings are spent here – first walking up the hill from the 6th to the 4th, hoping the weather will grant a view of Mont Blanc, and then wandering back down, watching the city unfold in a completely different direction. Mornings here – with the organic market, beautiful boulangeries, cosy coffee shops, the cheese shop and the florists – are non-negotiables of my lyonnaise life. And here are the addresses I love.

Iberico & Co
Spanish ham shop.

Boulangerie Jadis
Fruly beautiful organic bread, where even croissants are made with a leaven. And their panettone is one of the best I have had.

Bohmen
Local artist shop. a true gem.

Abel Epicerie
Different products.

Romane
Organic boulangerie and now the winner of the best croissant in the Rhone region.

Mokxa
A coffee place that nothing compares to

Seve
Chocolate shop and a marvellous praline tart.

La Maison du Miel
All honey.

Gouter par Sébastien Bouillet
Viennoiseries and cake

Fromagerie D’Austerlitz
Cheese shop.

Crema
A coffee shop that also serves food.

The new me
Pilates studio